Today was one of those days that wasn’t necessarily good anywhere, although it looked absolutely fantastic at North Chesterman. I mean Magic Seaweed was saying it was 8-12 feet — and it was howling offshore like a mother.

wide angle Chesterman offshore

One onlooker characterized the swell as “back-breaking” (or at least board-breaking) material.img_8581

Checking the other beaches didn’t net much in the way of clean and decent…img_8591

So back to North I headed, to capture the moment on film (well, an SD card, but you know what I mean).img_8598

There was one lone dude out. Clearly with balls of steel.img_8603

After a few missed attempts, the surfer caught a solid peak, and he was thrust rapidly down the line.img_8604

The offshore winds were so strong he began to become obscured from view by the trail of steam-like water blow-off.img_8605

You could see him staring directly into the giant wall of water that was about to consume him and shit him out like day-old McDonald’s.img_8607

It was one giant moment of glory.


And then it was over.img_8618

But the surfer didn’t call it a day and head in.img_8626

Before you knew it he was back out there, ready for more, a true surf specimen of a man.img_8628

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