After working out today I found my wheels headed towards Cox Bay, where I saw an Aussie friend and made a new Kiwi one gazing at the gentle frequencies rolling in. I reminisced with a dude about the time he lost his wallet at the punk show in Ukee and asked which of the break he thought was firing better. He pointed out Canadian surfer Pete Devries absolutely murdering nearly every wave on the northernmost end of the beach. So after I cooked up a full-on breakfast with a hefty meat portion I headed down to the other beach access and suited up. By the time I made it to the beach the wave energy had dissipated further and I guess the healthy contingent of surfers I had spotted earlier bobbing in the ocean had decided to pack it in. I paddled out just wide of the main break at Landos and watched as the remaining five surfers headed in one at a time. The waves were smallish and not especially powerful, but they had a nice face to them. And the water was warm as hell. I probably caught more waves in a single session than I […]
Wickanninish on a small day A dull roar of tiny-ass waves Sun a pale yellow Creamy orange amber between its reflection and source The rest west coast impressionistic A few surfers head out to wait for the odd two-and-a-half footer reaping the the benefits There’s no malice here Just simplicity And even on a day like today, where there are moments when you cant even see foam anywhere it’s so flat I’d rather be here and know Than be elsewhere and wonder On a day like today you take it if you want it But no pressure To go out or no? A decision-making process as gentle as the evening mists by the purple silhouette mountains to the north
Tonight’s been a bit of a washed out chill sesh. You have to have nights like those every once and awhile — magazines spread out, Vancouver Island Brewery’s Sea Dog in one hand, munching on Real Fruit gummies picked up from LA Convenience. It still seems damp out even though it was sunny all day. Things are coalescing — friends preparing to move on, for now, others getting their foothold locked on.
I remember this moment as one of those times where I drove over the hump — across Vancouver Island — and descended into Tofino with high hopes, only to discover a rainy wasteland awaited. At least that’s the way it felt. The beaches seemed nearly empty, the waves unforgiving and dismal, but the rugged wistfulness of the place was simply enchanting (as per usual).
So many decisions to make. So much potential. So many ways to squander that potential. Nothing is easy. Each pace has long-term consequences. Relationships that will never be. If I could just put all this into practice — all the studying, hand-shaking and servitude. Maybe we could all end up where we’re suppose to. Or not…